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Bezel Set Engagement Rings

Modern Straight Tapered Head Oval Engagement Ring

Bezel set engagement rings stand out from the crowd. They are uncommon, and there are some technical reasons for that. But beyond that, a beautiful stone set in a modern, sleek bezel is captivating to the eye. This is not your typical prong set engagement ring. What is it about them that makes them so distinctive?

What is a bezel?

  • A full bezel is a strip of metal that wraps around a stone, either part-way or all the way around.
  • A semi-bezel or half bezel holds the stone in two sections, rather than in an uninterrupted line.
  • A bezel can also have multiple cut-outs, mimicking the look of prongs, while still allowing the stone to be set low. This may be referred to as a four cut-out setting, or multiple cut-out setting.

Bezel set Mokume Engagement RingWhat makes bezel set engagement rings so unusual?

  • A bezel has to be hand crafted for the stone that it is going to hold. Most larger diamonds, sapphires and gemstones suitable for engagement rings have unique dimensions, so a pre-manufactured bezel is out of the question. It requires fine skill to craft a bezel to exact proportions to the stone, and to integrate that setting into an engagement ring design.
  • In a prong setting, the prongs can be moved about to accommodate a variety of stone sizes. Typically, a prong setting is mass-manufactured. In many commercial engagement rings, the prong setting is soldered into place after the customer has selected the stone, so any semi-mount engagement ring can hold any stone. This is the definition of "custom" for most engagement ring suppliers.

Carved Waved Engagement RingWhat are the benefits of bezel set engagement rings?

  • Aesthetically, a bezel set engagement ring has a clean, strong look. It suits styles both contemporary and modern.
  • A bezel set engagement ring is a great choice for an active woman. Because of the length of the bezel, it is structurally sound and strong. Prongs have a greater tendency to catch and bend, thus compromising the security of the stone.
  • A bezel set engagement ring is also a great choice for the woman who wants a low profile to her engagement ring. With a bezel, you can have the stone set as low as possible, nearly all the way to the finger. Most prong set stones have greater height, as the prongs connect to each other right underneath the stone.
  • A bezel hugs the girdle of the stone, which protects the stone in that area.
  • A bezel set stone has more metal surrounding it, thus reducing the times that the ring needs to be in the shop for repair, or re-tipping. Prong tips wear down faster than bezels.

Custom Three Stone Mokume Swirl Engagement RingCan all stone shapes be bezel set?

  • Yes, indeed. A highly skilled craftsman can create a bezel for an emerald cut stone, pear shape, or whatever shape your heart desires! Even heart shapes!

How do I identify quality bezels?

  • A well-crafted bezel has been folded all the way down to the table facets of the stone. You should not be able to see any gaps between the bezel and the stone.
  • The bezel should be integrated into the engagement ring in a creative manner. Bezels plopped on top of rings look sloppy and like an afterthought.
  • The bezel should have a pleasing proportion to the rest of the ring. In a chunky ring, the bezel should have a balanced, chunky look. In a delicate ring, the bezel should look more refined.

Mokume Curls Engagement Ring with Yellow Gold LinerHow do I choose a bezel set engagement ring?

  • As with any engagement ring, you should start by deciding upon your preferred style. Are you looking for a modern engagement ring, or something a little more antique in style? Perhaps an organic design, or something delicate? Any of these choices can deliver a creative bezel set engagement ring design.
  • You may find a ring already made, with a stone that you love, however, your choices will open up if you choose to have your bezel set engagement ring custom made. That way, you can select any diamond, sapphire or gemstone that you desire, and have your ring built around that stone in an aesthetically pleasing, creative and proportional manner.

Modern Engagement Ring CubeGetting Started

  • Start by selecting your engagement ring style. Keep in mind that if you are indeed having your ring custom made, you may be able to integrate a bezel into any style of ring.
  • Decide upon stone shape, type, and color, and pick out your stone! At Krikawa, the gemologist will help educate you about different types of stones. If you choose a colored stone, it will be shipped to you for approval on the color. You should love your colored stone in person before a bezel is crafted for it.
  • In a custom ring with Krikawa, you can look forward to receiving a 3D rendering of your ring, for approval, before it is made, if it is an unusual design. That way you can see the proportions of the stone and bezel to the ring.
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